What to do
Twelve things, chosen for guests who have limited energy.
Istanbul will absorb as much time as you give it, and then ask for more. Our programs deliberately schedule one thing a day, not three. What follows is the shortlist — our guide Ali will walk you through which ones to actually do based on where you are in your medical week.
do · a morning on the water
BOSPHORUS
A morning on the water
The municipal ferry from Beşiktaş to Üsküdar, every twenty minutes, on the deck, forty minutes, a tea. The best introduction to the city any of our guides will give you.
do · ayasofya, before nine
ANTIQUITY
Ayasofya, before nine
The doors open at seven-thirty. Our guides book the first slot. Twenty minutes of silence inside, before anyone else arrives. The light through the upper windows does something it never does later.
do · the basilica cistern
ANTIQUITY
The Basilica Cistern
Underneath the old city, cool, dim, columns looted from older Roman ruins. We book the 16:00 slot — the tour groups have thinned, the acoustic is what it was meant to be.
do · kadıköy food market · wednesdays
MARKET
Kadıköy food market · Wednesdays
A real market, not a tourist one. Our food director takes guests across on the ferry; cheese at Namlı, honey at Beypazarı, pickles at Şütte. Three hours, if you do it properly.
do · emirgan park at tulip time
GARDEN
Emirgan park at tulip time
April only. The city's Ottoman tulip festival — a million bulbs, a hilltop, an uncrowded weekday morning. A reminder of what the word 'garden' means here.
do · kılıç ali paşa hammam
HAMMAM
Kılıç Ali Paşa hammam
Sinan, sixteenth century, restored in 2012. Women's mornings and men's afternoons. Ninety minutes, then a long lie-down. We book it for guests on recovery weeks, cleared with the medical team first.
do · fazıl say at the akm
MUSIC
Fazıl Say at the AKM
When he is in town. Turkey's most serious living pianist, in a hall that re-opened in 2021. We check the schedule when you arrive.
do · arter + istanbul modern
ART
Arter + Istanbul Modern
Two contemporary art museums across the Bosphorus from each other, both architecturally serious. A full day; we put lunch between them.
do · grand bazaar, the jewellers' row
BAZAAR
Grand Bazaar, the jewellers' row
The quiet way: in through the Nuruosmaniye gate, straight to the gold dealers our fixer knows, no pressure, leave with tea. Ninety minutes, no more.
do · büyükada, on a weekday
ISLANDS
Büyükada, on a weekday
Ninety minutes by ferry, no cars on the island, horses retired since 2020. A bicycle, a restaurant on the east shore, back by supper. Summer only.
do · sunset from pierre loti
EVENING
Sunset from Pierre Loti
The hilltop above the Golden Horn. A cable-car up, a Turkish coffee on the terrace, the whole of the old city glowing below. Our drivers know the window — twenty minutes after sunset, not before.
do · the süleymaniye courtyard
QUIET
The Süleymaniye courtyard
Sinan's masterpiece, the city's second mosque. The courtyard, off-season, mid-morning, is one of the quietest outdoor spaces in the centre of Istanbul. We send guests there on their last day.